Anatomy of a Binder: Research

6 Oct 20186 Oct 2018

I’m currently learning how to create a replica of a binder I own. For the next few weeks, I’ll be sharing my progress – the fabrics, the measurements, and fingers…

It fits!

19 Sep 20186 Oct 2018

Hey all, For a while, I've had a theory that a basic women's sloper - or any other skin-fit garment - ought to fit literally anybody. This is because wear…

Shirts & Seams

14 Sep 20186 Oct 2018

The Ishmael shirt finally fits - but I'm now wrestling with problems of design. I've spent the summer making a sloper, and cracking upper-body fit issues. Along the way, I've…

The Importance of Fit

2 Sep 20182 Sep 2018

Fit is gender neutral. It is a toolbox of skills which can be applied on any garment, for any body, of any gender. Understanding fitting is an important breakthrough for the…

What’s New – August

12 Aug 20182 Sep 2018

The Whale shirt is almost good to go. I've got a first draft of an instruction set ready for testing. Work proceeds more slowly than I'd like. I've read a…

New Book: Clothes and the Body

12 Aug 2018

Menswear and womenswear are two very different traditions, both with expectations for how they are worn and designed. Understanding what clothes can and cannot do will help you solve design…

Understanding the Limits of Drafting

15 Jun 20182 Sep 2018

Quick post today, just to get a "duh captain obvious" realisation on paper. This post is about using tools better when you understand what they can, and cannot do. I'm…

Basic Concepts: Make a Sloper

3 Jun 2018

Once you've made a basic pattern of your body, it's easy to adapt it to make and adjust clothes. My sloper is one of the best discoveries I made while designing…

Making Menswear 101

27 May 20183 Jul 2018

An updated-as-and-when-I-find-links list of books & blogs I've used and liked. General - Books Menswear Reading List - V&A museum General - Menswear Blogs Male pattern boldness Start here. Amateur formerly-amateur-increasingly-professional…

The Classic Shirt [v0.1]

24 May 201824 May 2018

Hello my lovelies! Today, I'm releasing my very early alpha versions of the Classic Men's Shirt pattern - a.k.a. the Great White Whale. These are extremely unfinished: The draft instructions…

Basic Concepts: Getting Started

21 May 2018

In the past four years, I've taught myself pattern-making from scratch. This series guides you through the key concepts you need to really understand to pattern-making. These are the discoveries…

Basic Concepts: Draping Works!

21 May 201827 May 2018

Draping is pattern-making by pinning fabric directly to a person - or a model of their body. Draping is traditionally used in womenswear: it's the best way to fit curves,…